A Walk Around Cathedral Close

In my sixth St. Mark's choir pilgrimage, I've learned that these journeys mean many surprises. In fact, you can count on it! (Fish pedicures in Exeter, anyone?)

Before we arrived in Salisbury, we knew we'd be discovering this vibrant city and, of course, the Cathedral. What we didn't know was that we would also discover a city within the city…a green oasis called the Cathedral Close.

"Close" is a versatile word, but here it's used to describe an enclosed space. The Close surprised us on our first night, when we strolled over for a glimpse of the Cathedral. We entered the west gate amidst ancient, 16-foot stone walls, and stepped onto a lane lined with college and residence buildings. So far, so good. And then, as we turned a corner, we were gobsmacked (as they say) by the immense blue sky and light, grassy lawns and benches, ancient trees, and most of all a feeling of peace and space.

You breathe in and are instantly calmed in what turns out to be an 80-acre preserve, the largest Close in the UK. The bustle of the city fades away. The Cathedral is the centerpiece, of course. And, as is its due, it commands the lawns. But at a farther distance rings a collection of religious and secular buildings, museums, and gardens. And, on the west boundary, the River Avon (yes, that Avon), much chummier than its larger version.

Turns out the Close is as old as the Cathedral itself, laid out in 1220 and used as a building site for the early part of its life. It was able to maintain its boundaries and character over time, and now is the home of a preservation society working to save Leaden Hall, a small 1740s Georgian home, and biodiversity through wildflower plantings.

A self-guided walking tour, just right for your own pace, provides entry to some buildings (The Salisbury Museum, Mompesson House, Arundells (home of former MP Edward Heath), and more). In other areas, you can only peer through wrought-iron railings to admire their moss-covered gabled roofs, mullioned windows and beautiful gardens, and narrow alleyways that surely lead off to mysterious places.

I could take up residence on a bench and live here, I think. A sleeping bag, perhaps, and of course my music! But as the hours unfold, I realize that the Close is far more than a tranquil walled setting. It is lovely, but it's not empty. To me, it has its own identity, more than open space but rather the quality of the space itself. It enfolds you when you enter and doesn't let you know.

Perhaps I'll take this with me when we leave here: the magical quality of a defined space, one in which peace, and community, and beauty, and light are found. I like the idea of creating little mini-Closes…in the home, the office, the garden. Let me know what you think!